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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 1:41 am 
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Why don't you pull the intake manifold off to port and siamese it?

From what the CFI guys are reporting so far, you will probably get a bigger boost from the siamese job...Mine is ported, and there is a little performance increase.

Plus no one will know you worked on it, because it's all on the inside...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:56 am 
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Dawg, that is a good idea and I have thought about porting the manifold. But I'm not sure I trust my porting skills to do it, since I have never done this before. And I'm not familiar enough w/ siamesed ports. I understand the concept, just haven't seen any pic's. It would be nice to pick up a spare intake to work on before I tear mine down, just in case...Also, I thought it would be better to do this when I do the engine rebuild and right now I have no space available in the garage. Soon I hope, once my house is built. Then will I be able to afford the rebuild, hmm.

Thanks for the reply. :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2005 1:59 am 
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Ok kiddies, your Almighty moderator is going on vacation. Behave while I'm gone...

We are going camping in northern Arizona again, time to get out of the 120 degree heat... We park our 5th wheel at about 9500 foot altitude, and go trout fishing..
I'll be back next weekend, C ya then... :D


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2005 3:28 pm 
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Desertdawg wrote:
Ok kiddies, your Almighty moderator is going on vacation. Behave while I'm gone...

We are going camping in northern Arizona again, time to get out of the 120 degree heat... We park our 5th wheel at about 9500 foot altitude, and go trout fishing..
I'll be back next weekend, C ya then... :D


Have a wonderful time out camping and fishing. Don't forget to bring sun screen... :wink:

Enjoy! :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2005 5:34 pm 
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Lucky Dawg! :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2005 6:26 pm 
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I'm back, good to see you guys behaved. :D

Went fishing, enjoyed the cold weather at 9500 foot altitude, and ate to much...

Now it's back to the drudgery of work. Someone has to pay the bills...


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 11:55 pm 
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Well I ordered my headers today, I saved up enough milk money between college bills and high school senior bills to afford a set of Stan's tri-Y's. They should be here sometime next week...
I hope to find time next weekend to install them... :D


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2005 6:19 pm 
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Desertdawg wrote:
I hope to find time next weekend to install them... :D


All you have to do is take another vacation just to install them. 8)

I hope everything turns out for you. Just don't brake them.... :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2005 10:19 am 
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Desertdawg wrote:
Well I ordered my headers today, I saved up enough milk money between college bills and high school senior bills to afford a set of Stan's tri-Y's. They should be here sometime next week...
I hope to find time next weekend to install them... :D


Well, here i go with a dumb question (again)..
Whats the difference between the regular Y's to the ones you got ?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2005 7:16 pm 
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Normal long tube header ( 4 into 1 ) are great for high RPM performance, but they are also known to reduce torque, especially in our application.

Image

In "TRI-Y" headers, the primary tubes are paired in a 4-into-2 and 2-into-l formation. This increases the cylinder scavenging effect and improves engine breathing by utilizing the exhaust velocity of one cylinder to help the exhaust velocity of another.
Tests have indicated that the late model vehicles with lower operating RPM ranges function (Scavenge) more efficiently with the " TRI-Y DESIGN". "Tri-Y" headers were specifically designed for these engines. While 4-tube headers are well suited for some applications, the "Tri-Y Design" is significantly more effective on most street and off-road applications.

Image
Image


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 Post subject: Stans Headers
PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 11:51 am 
Congratulations on your new headers, I have been thinking about Stans for awhile now. Can you tell me if they will put in smog connections? How much are they? How are you going to route your duals, are you installing a new crossmember?

Looking forward to hearing about your progress and your results!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 4:39 pm 
[/quote] Well, here i go with a dumb question (again)..
Whats the difference between the regular Y's to the ones you got ?[/quote]



That wasn't a dumb question at all.I learned something new because of your "dumb" question.I was just too dumb to ask it first. :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 4:42 pm 
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I'm double dumb,forgot to sign in AND Its obviuos I can't "quote" anyone.
Jules :oops:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 10:55 pm 
Hello this is copter.I've got my AC fixed,blows nice and COLD!!!Bought a new carpet set and some Al Knock seat covers.don't really need them yet but I had the money so what the hell.I'll need them some day.Also looked at some rear hatch hinges on ebay.Guy wanted $500.00 and they were used.The little pins that hold the window shut.$100.00 a peice!!!Don't know if he ever sold them but if he did it wasn't to me.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2005 11:43 pm 
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Hi Spinout, you should get registered on our site....
You will have to call them to ask about the smog connection, here's there web site...
http://www.stans-headers.com/index.htm
My total cost was $452.00 shipped to Az. gaskets and bolts are included...
I'm going to remove my cat, and route the dual pipes in the same location under the passenger seat. No new crossmember needed.
Just for your info, you won't be able to add a new cross member to route the pipes one down each side, because of the power drivers seat, the floor pan is lower on the drivers side, no room for an exhaust pipe there...

Jules, the [/quote] is used to close the quote, don't add a / to the [quote] open command...


My box arrived on Wednesday, and boy are they purty!!!

Image

All the inside welds are ground smooth and the flange is machined flat.

Image

Flange is 3/8 thick, and the nickle plating looks good.

Image

The "ball & socket is the best coupling to use at the collector to prevent leaks.

Image[/img]


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